Something to Chew On: Celiac disease - Forward Thinking at Culinary School

Student Contributor: Erin McDowell
Culinary Arts Degree Program:
B.P.S. in Culinary Arts

Consider the idea of a child’s birthday without cake. Or the inability to share lunches with a friend without serious ramifications. Or, as if this is not enough, imagine your own life without bread, pasta, or even (gasp) anything found in a common vending machine. With more and more knowledge about increasing food allergies and intolerances penetrating the American public, people everywhere are being diagnosed with a lifelong, incurable illness known as celiac sprue disease. This disease poses serious, life-altering problems: it completely changes the way a person eats, drinks, cooks, and lives. And, as America slowly pulls farther and farther away from the home kitchen, how can tasty, allergy-conscious alternatives be discovered when the average person can barely cook for him or herself?

Not to be confused with an allergy to wheat, celiac sprue is actually an intolerance. An enzyme is physically missing in the digestive system of those with the disease (much like lactose intolerance); this enzyme breaks down the protein known as gluten and allows the body to digest it. Those without the enzyme suffer from extreme intestinal distress when they come in contact with even the smallest amount of gluten. This delicate situation leaves but one reasonable answer to the question of how to discover alternate recipes. The standard chef and pastry chef are aware of ingredients that can be used as alternatives to those containing gluten. They are also aware of the complicated science behind food, and this awareness allows them to manipulate food in a variety of new ways. The results are limitless: pizzas, cookies, and sandwiches—all completely gluten-free. So why aren’t more restaurants considering the celiac customer when they write their menus?

If there is any question about the prevalence of the disease, one need only examine the facts. The University of Maryland recently released numbers indicating the growth in occurrences of this disease in recent years. Original estimates stated that only one out of every 7,000 Americans had the intolerance; current numbers, however, indicate that one out of every 150 people has celiac sprue disease. In addition, those diagnosed have to avoid far more than just flour (an extremely unfriendly ingredient for celiacs). Gluten is found in surprising places, including candy, soy sauce, vitamins, some medications, lip balms, and even Play Doh.

Yet, even with the high increase in number of people with the disease, restaurants are still slow on the uptake. How dire is the situation? In July, The New York Times published an article discussing the lack of celiac-friendly restaurants in New York City alone. The article’s author, Jennifer Romolini, writes: “Dinner can seem like a celiac support group as regulars swivel in their chairs to talk about their hunt for food they can [actually] eat.” This is painfully true for most celiacs: once they find somewhere with an option available for their needs, they will remain true and consistent customers. They do not really have a choice.

Consider Dahlia, a 19-year-old student at The Culinary Institute of America. She was diagnosed as a celiac at a young age, but still elected to enroll in the baking and pastry arts degree program at the college. In all classes, she wore gloves to limit her contact with flour or other ingredients in which gluten can be found. In her second year of breads class, she was required to wear a facemask to prevent her from inhaling and ingesting the flour present in the air. And, even with all of this, she still struggled to make it through the course. She suffered from stomach pains, digestive problems, and other forms of physical distress. Why would someone put oneself through this? The answer is clear, and tragically overlooked. People with food allergies and intolerances are tired of being ignored. As someone with a physical handicap still expects to be able to participate in everyday tasks, how can the American public so easily deny the celiac population (and others with similar dietary concerns) the ability to eat?

What’s worse is the restaurant industry is truly missing out on not only a niche market but also a major source of income for themselves. Essentially, there is no excuse or reasoning for not jumping on this bandwagon. Even the smallest selection of gluten-free menu items will attract a large and faithful crowd. And, since the celiac population is aware that gluten-free ingredients can be expensive, they are genuinely willing to pay high prices for good food. With just a little practice, a dash of creativity, and the knowledge of food they already posses, restaurant chefs could produce high-quality menu items that allow even celiacs to enjoy a night of dining out.

So while the celiac population is forcing down another slice of rubbery, tasteless bread, perhaps the chefs and restaurateurs of America also have something new to chew on.

1 University of Maryland Medical Center. “Celiac Disease – Sprue.” 2007. www.umm.edu/ency/article/000233.htm
2 Vincent Iannelli, MD. “Gluten Free Medications.” 2007.
www.pediatrics.about.com
3 Jennifer Romolini. “For the Gluten Averse, a Menu That Works.” The New York Times. 25 July 2007.